Ahimsa silk is also known as wild silk or peace silk because the cocoons are boiled after the moths emerge. It is completely different from regular silk because it is produced without harming the silkworms.
Wild silk is a type of natural silk produced by non-domesticated silkworms that live and feed in the wild, mainly on trees in natural forests. It is harvested from silkworms that feed on a mix of natural leaves like oak, sal, arjun, and others, depending on the species. It gives the silk a special texture, natural color, and earthy tones.
History of wild silk
When we think of silk, we often imagine the smooth fabric made from mulberry silkworms in China. But the wild silk has a completely different story. It has been used for thousands of years by people living close to forests.
From about the 2nd century BCE, silk became one of the world’s most desired commodities. While mulberry silk dominated global trade, wild silks were woven and worn in parts of Asia, especially in India and China. Wild silkworms live freely in the forest and feed on trees like Asan, Arjun, oak, and castor. After emerging from their cocoons, people collected them and used them to create wild silk fabrics such as Muga, Eri, and Tussar (Tasar). These silks had great local value even though they didn’t always travel far.
For those who produced and wore it, peace silk remained relevant and local. It was used in ceremonies, rituals, and traditional clothing. Particularly among women and tribal artisans, the skills of collecting, spinning, and weaving wild silk were handed down from one generation to the next.
Wild silk is currently regaining popularity, particularly in slow fashion. Because it can be produced without the use of chemicals or large farms, it is regarded as an environmentally friendly option. Wild silk’s exceptional qualities make it unique for handcrafted clothing and accessories.
How is wild silk fabric made?
Collection of cocoons
Local communities or farmers collect these cocoons from forests or semi-domesticated rearing areas. Regular silk can be harvested before the moth hatches, but wild silk is totally different. The moth has naturally emerged from the cocoon, making it a cruelty-free process.
Processing the cocoons
In the process of peace silk production, the moth comes out of the cocoon on its own. After that, people use the empty cocoon to make silk. So, the cocoon is not harmed, which makes it a more gentle and eco-friendly process.
Sorting the cocoons
Cocoons are carefully sorted based on their size, shape, and quality once they are collected. Cocoons that are damaged or pierced by the moth emerging are used for spinning instead of reeling.
Reeling filaments into longer threads
Usually, wild silk filaments are shorter due to the moth’s emergence. It is important to combine several cocoon threads to create a longer strand to weave a fabric. In many villages, women spin wild silk by hand by carefully twisting short fibers into strong and continuous threads.
Spinning wild silk into yarn
The reeled filaments are then twisted to form yarn. Spinning involves twisting the combined silk filaments into a more structured manner. It helps to turn the loose fibers into a stronger and more durable thread. The resulting yarn will be smoother and ready for weaving into fabric.
Weaving yarn into fabric
Industrial reeling machines are designed to handle long, continuous filaments, like those found in cultivated silk. While they can process wild silk, the challenge is that wild silk usually needs to be hand-spun into yarn first before machines can work with it. Since wild silk has shorter, broken, and irregular filaments, it is often handwoven by skilled artisans instead.
Types of wild silk
Wild silk fabric is generally handwoven by skilled artisans who have learned the craft from their ancestors, as wild silk fibers are short and modern machines are not suited to process them. Each piece of fabric takes a lot of time and care to produce. This is what makes ahimsa silk fabric so valuable.
Muga silk
One of the rarest and most distinctive types of silk in the world is muga silk. A silkworm known as Antheraea assamensis produces it by consuming the leaves of the soalu (Litsaea polyantha) and som (Persea bombycina) plants. It is also known as the “golden silk of Assam” because it originates in Assam, India. Over 95% of muga silk is produced in Assam in India. Unlike other silks, it doesn’t require dyeing because it is naturally golden and becomes richer with each wash.
It is one of the strongest silks in the world and can last for many years without losing its shine or softness. In fact, the more you wear it, the better it looks. Muga silk was once worn only by royalty in Assam, and even today, it is used in traditional clothing for special occasions.
Discover our Muga silkTasar (Tussah) silk
Tasar (Tussah) silk is produced by wild silkworms, mainly the Antheraea mylitta species, which feeds on Asan and Arjun trees in India. These trees are commonly found in the forests of Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Maharashtra, and parts of West Bengal. Other types of silkworms, like Antheraea proylei and Antheraea pernyi, also produce tasar silk. These worms feed on oak and similar leaves, and A. pernyi is one of the main producers of tasar silk around the world.
India is the second-largest tassar silk-producing country after China. Tasar silk production is a lifeline for many rural and tribal communities in India. These communities are deeply involved in the rearing of silkworms, like the collection of cocoons, the reeling of silk, and the weaving of fabrics.
This wild silk is robust, which resists wear and lasts long with proper care. It is naturally breathable, which keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter
Eri silk
Eri silk comes from the Samia Cynthia Ricini moth or Philosomia Ricini moth, predominantly found in Assam, Meghalaya, and other northeast states of India. The caterpillars prefer castor leaves, but also eat Kessaru and cassava leaves. These leaves grow in the wild. Cocoons are large and uneven, and they can be white, off-white, or reddish in color. This eri silk fabric looks like cotton, and the cloth is largely handwoven.
The fabric is gentle on the skin and doesn’t cause irritation or itchiness, and is hydrophilic while absorbing water properly. Eri silk is well known to be the most absorbent silk because it absorbs natural dyes very well.
Difference between mulberry silk and wild silk
| Feature | Mulberry Silk | Wild Silk |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Domesticated silkworms fed only mulberry leaves | Wild silkworms fed on diverse leaves in the wild (oak, castor, etc.) |
| Moth lifecycle | Cocoons are harvested before moths emerge | Cocoons are collected after the moths emerge |
| Fiber length | Long and unbroken | Short and broken |
| Sericin content | Lower (often removed) | Higher, giving it more stiffness and protection |
| Texture | Smooth, soft, and shiny | Coarse, textured, and matte |
| Natural color | Pure white | Beige, tan, brownish, or golden |
| Processing | Machine-releasable and processed on an industrial scale | Hand-spun and hand-woven due to short and broken fibers |
Why choose Green Tailor for wild silk fabric
Wild silk fabric isn’t easy to find; only a few brands offer it. Among them, Green Tailor really stands out for its commitment to traditional craftsmanship and ethical production. Our wild silk (peace silk) fabric or products are made in a natural and cruelty-free way. We do not mass-produce our wild silk fabrics by machine. Each piece is handcrafted by skilled artisans supporting the values of slow fashion. The fabric comes in its natural color of off-white, creamy, or golden, which is breathable and durable.
All the natural fabrics and products available on our website are ready to dye with natural dyes. You can order small amounts with our no MOQ options. It is a great choice if you value high-quality and sustainable wild silk made with care.
